Choosing a knit fabric is one of the first decisions that shapes the cost, comfort and consistency of an apparel line. The structure you choose determines how the fabric stretches, how it drapes, and how it behaves after repeated washing and wear.
Start With the End Use
Before looking at a single swatch, answer three questions: what is the garment, how will it be worn, and what is the target price point? A basic T-shirt, a hoodie and a pair of leggings each need different behaviour from the fabric.
Compare the Common Knit Structures
| Structure | Typical GSM | Stretch | Common Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single Jersey | 120 - 200 | Good, 4-way with spandex | T-shirts, tops |
| French Terry | 240 - 320 | Moderate | Sweatshirts, hoodies |
| Fleece / Brushed Back | 280 - 420 | Low to moderate | Winter hoodies, joggers |
| Rib | 180 - 300 | High, good recovery | Cuffs, collars, trims |
| Interlock | 180 - 260 | Moderate, stable | Structured tops, babywear |
| Pique | 160 - 220 | Low | Polo shirts |
Look at Weight and Composition Together
GSM alone does not describe a fabric. A 180 GSM cotton jersey and a 180 GSM cotton/spandex jersey look similar on paper but behave very differently on the body. Composition affects recovery, shrinkage and how the surface takes dye.
Always Validate With a Swatch
- Request lab dips so colour is agreed before bulk.
- Wash-test the swatch and measure shrinkage, not just hand feel.
- Confirm the actual usable width, not only the nominal width.
- Ask for the technical sheet: composition, GSM, width, shrinkage and colourfastness.
If you send us a tech pack or a reference garment, our team can recommend the closest construction and send swatches within a few working days.